Sunday Morning 2/24/2019: Week 1 in Japan

It is still wintery cold outside, but plum blossoms (ume) mean that it won’t be long before spring arrives. The blossoms are a symbol of strength and perseverance because they bloom even in the coldest weather.

It’s Sunday morning in Japan! We just finished up our breakfast not too long ago: some frozen waffles with syrup (C also had a bowl of cereal). I bought the frozen waffles at the commissary last weekend when we were out at the base with our son. We had our grandson to sleep over on Friday night, then watched the grandkids yesterday afternoon for a few hours while our son and DIL went out to dinner, and C came back home with us to spend the night with us again! Both Brett and I had sort of forgotten how exhausting it is to watch young kids, but we’re enjoying our time with them so much.

Our Tokyo apartment – we’re on the second floor, at the back of the building. Our host owns the entire building (nine apartments), and rents some of them full time and keeps the others as Airbnb-type rentals.

We’re mostly settled in now, and have figured most things out around our apartment. We still feel a bit though like we’re it will soon be time to pack up and get on the road again – the fact that we’ll be here for three months hasn’t really taken root with us yet. Our apartment is very comfortable (and warm!), but the chairs are lower than in the U.S. which has taken some getting used to. And, it’s the only apartment building I know of in Japan where the units don’t have a balcony, so we’ve had to dry our clothes indoors. They dry pretty quickly but we sort of dislike having the drying rack set up in the living room. Also, we had a bit of trouble adjusting to the bed at first. It didn’t feel soft, but I was waking up the first few days with a pretty bad back ache. It turned out we were sleeping under the futon that goes on top of the mattress rather than on top of the futon (which we thought was a comforter), and once we got that straightened out, no more backaches!

We’ve spent a great deal of the past two days over at our son’s home, only coming home in the evening. All we’ve done in the neighborhood is shop for necessities. It’s still a bit hard for me to walk for long distances – the toe I broke still hurts more than I’d like at this point, and I’m also trying to get the last bit of swelling to go down on my right leg. It appears I suffered a “bone bruise” on my shin when I fell as we left our Auckland Airbnb, a traumatic injury to a bone just short of a fracture. It’s getting better, and the bruising on my leg is almost gone (at one point it covered the entire area from my ankle up to my knee!), but the leg still needs some rest. I’m guessing it’s going to take around a full eight weeks for it to heal completely.

Finally, instead of my usual bonus question at the end, I’ve decided to add a Japanese word I’ve learned in the past week. This will be a useful or interesting word that I’ve finally figured out, and will hopefully help me remember what I’ve learned.

Today I am:

  • Reading: I started Becoming, by Michelle Obama, this past week and can hardly stand to put it down. It’s wonderful! She’s really a terrific writer and I’m enjoying her story so much. I am also enjoying actually having the time again to read – it was difficult when we were traveling around so much as I usually would open the book and fall right asleep from exhaustion.
  • Listening to: Brett is reading, but C is playing a game on my phone, and he insists on having the sound on. His mom or dad will be picking him up in a few more minutes though – they are going to the zoo today.
  • Watching: Nothing. We can’t understand anything on the TV so we just leave it shut off. I can access our Netflix account here, but haven’t watched anything yet.
  • Cooking: I am making two Chinese dishes tonight using Cook-Do sauce mixes: shrimp in chili sauce, and stir-fried peppers and pork. When I could find Cook-Do back in the U.S. it was very expensive ($4-$6 per package), but here it’s only around $1.50 per package. The sauces make cooking Chinese food so easy! We’ve figured out the rice cooker so we’ll also be having steamed rice along with the two dishes.
    Our son standing by the door to his sixth grade classroom. Most of the school has been rebuilt, but he found this area that remained from when he attended the school.

    Lots of Diet Coke, breakfast cereals, and other goodies for our son! Cereal with milk was his favorite snack when he was young (and the ones he got this time were cereals I would not let him have! Same for the PopTarts and doughnuts he picked out). We will go back again to restock before we leave.
  • Happy I accomplished last week: Our son drove us out to the NAF Atsugi base last Sunday and we got things we needed at both the exchange and the commissary, including LOTS of Diet Coke and breakfast cereals for our son. We lived on the base back from 1989-1992, so it was interesting and nostalgic driving around and seeing what was the same and what had changed (almost, but not quite, everything). Saddest for me was that the house we lived in, my favorite of all our navy houses, had been demolished and a new one put up in its place. Same for the house we lived in off-base. Brett and I also made a trip over to the New Sanno Hotel this past week, where we stayed with YaYu in 2017. We bought some KitKats there, including a new flavor: plum sake.

    Looking out at the Hiroo neighborhood from my favorite bakery. This is the area where we stayed on our last trip to Japan in 2017, and when I came in 2014 – there were so many memories as we walked around.
  • Looking forward to next week: We have no big plans for next week, although Brett may need to go to the base in Yokosuka and get a new debit card so we’ll pick a day for that as it will be an all-day excursion. We’ll check out their exchange and commissary while we’re there. I am planning to stop by the takoyaki (octopus fritters) stand sometime next week and get an order for our dinner, and we’re also planning to visit another nearby shrine this week.

    Our granddaughter loves showing us her hina dolls, an emperor and empress, along with their accoutrement. They’re set up for Girls’ Day (Hina Matsuri) on March 3. Superstition says that if a girl doesn’t display the dolls she will never marry.
  • Thinking of good things that happened: We ate dinner at our son’s home on Thursday  and Friday evenings – our DIL in a terrific cook, and we of course loved spending time with the grands. On Friday she ordered out from a nearby sushi restaurant and we had a feast! Our grandson is having a lot of fun sorting out all of his foreign money and putting it away in a notebook for now. And, of course we loved having him over for sleepovers – he is so much fun and very helpful to us. On our trip to the New Sanno we stopped by my favorite bakery and I was able to get two loaves of their sliced raisin bread, which is my favorite bread ever (one was for the freezer). We enjoyed our trip to the very interesting Setagaya Kannon Temple – we’re still talking about it, trying to figure it all out. Neither our son nor daughter-in-law could explain it.
  • Thinking of frugal things we did: I’m not sure how frugal we’ve been other than we haven’t gone crazy shopping out in town (although it’s been tempting a few times), and have done a good job eating all of our leftovers. We’re right where we need to be, budget-wise. I’m so happy to be fixing our own meals again (or eating over at our son’s) versus having to eat out all the time like we did for the most part in New Zealand, but we also like to occasionally pick up things from the prepared food section at the supermarket or a bento from one of the minimarts a couple of times a week – they’re affordable, and not too big of a splurge.
  • Grateful for: I may have hurt my leg pretty badly, but I am exceedingly thankful I did not fracture my shin bone! What a mess I would be now if that had happened. It really only looks bad now – it doesn’t hurt otherwise, even when I walk. My toe is another matter though – it’s still painful nearly three weeks after I broke it although some days are worse than others.
  • Japanese word for the week: Mamonaku 間もなく. For several days after we arrived I kept hearing this word in subway stations or while I was riding the train, and decided to look it up. The characters for the word are ma 間(space or interval), mo も(too or also), and naku なく(a suffix forming the negative). So, the direct meaning is “no further space” but a more useful translation is “shortly,” as in “the train will be arriving shortly” (no more space in time). The video above is a recording of announcements you hear in train stations throughout Japan. The language is a very polite form. Can you hear the announcer say mamonaku at the beginning? She is announcing the arrival of trains on certain tracks and where they are going, as well as reminding passengers that it’s dangerous as the trains arrive so please stand behind the yellow line. I can actually understand most of what she’s saying in the video!

Sundays are kind of a crazy day to go out in Japan because everyone is off and doing things, and trains and places tend to be crowded. So, we’re planning to stay in today to take care of some housekeeping and other tasks.

How was your week? What are you doing today? What good books are you reading?

Setagaya Kannon Temple

The Setagaya Kannon Temple contains both Buddhist and Shinto features within its grounds. A Shinto torii gate sits in front of a building with a gold Buddhist swastika crest on its roof.

This somewhat unusual (well, to me anyway) temple is located fairly close to our apartment in Setagaya; Brett and I came upon it the other day when we were walking around the neighborhood. I use the word unusual because Buddhist temples are typically quite distinct from Shinto shrines, but this site seemed to be something of a mash-up of both, which I have never seen before in Japan.

The main entrance to the temple is a traditional Buddhist design, but hanging across the front is a Shinto shimenawa (hemp rope) with shide (folded paper strips).
One of two Niō, guardians at the temple’s main gate. The Niō are aways very large, fierce and muscular.
The Niō represent not only protection for the temple, but also the beginning and end of all things (“the alpha and omega”).

According to what I could find out about the temple, it was constructed in 1951 following World War II. However, in 1955 the Special Attack Kannon (Buddhist Goddess of Mercy) statues were moved to the temple. Initially these Kannon statues were placed in the main temple, but were moved to their own building in 1956. The statues are in remembrance of Special Attack forces (known as kamikaze) during the war, and dedicated to the 4,615 young men who sacrificed their lives for their country. A memorial ceremony for the dead is held on the 18th of each month.

The main temple is on the right, and the small temple containing the special Kannon is on the left.
We were not sure of the purpose of this building . . .
. . . nor this one, but both were quite striking, and again have Shinto shimenawa in front.

The temple grounds contain several memorials to the kamikaze. Some appear to be group memorials, while a few seemed to be for individuals. One memorial is in front of the main gate, but the others are located throughout the grounds.

What appeared to be the newest memorial to the kamikaze sat outside the main gate.
This memorial to the kamikaze was located inside the grounds, nearby the building that holds the Special Attack Forces Kannon statues.
These appeared to be memorials to individuals, located near the main temple.

What was most interesting and confusing to me were the Shinto shimenawa (hemp ropes) and shide (folded white paper which is attached to the rope) found throughout the temple grounds, and on all of the buildings. When we first entered the temple compound I thought we were visiting a Shinto shrine, and was confused by Buddhist indicators or symbols, such as statues of Kannon and swastikas. Shimenawa are placed to note that ritual purification of a space by a Shinto priest has taken place, and that the area inside is sacred. They act as a ward against evil spirits. They are also placed around objects which can be inhabited by spirits, such as trees or rocks, and cutting down those trees or moving those rocks can bring misfortune. Although Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines can share many features, in all my visits to Japan I have never seen shimenawa placed inside or anywhere near a Buddhist temple, and now I am very curious about why it’s been done at this particular place.

Sacred tree wearing a shimenawa – so unusual to see this inside a Buddhist temple’s grounds.

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The whole temple area had a particularly haunting feel to it. It’s all well-maintained, some other visitors came and prayed while we were there, and we were greeted warmly by a priest. But the overall sensation was one of great sadness like I’ve never felt before.

Getting To Know Our Neighborhood: A Picture Story

Just around the corner from our quiet street is a busy shopping area that we spent some time checking out yesterday and today.

Brett and I have spent the past two days walking around in the area close to our apartment, getting to know where things are and what’s nearby. Quite a lot, it turns out!

Tokyu is our closest supermarket, located in the basement of this building, called Carrot Tower. The supermarket is absolutely HUGE, and it’s like fantasy land for me. It’s about a seven minute walk away from our apartment.
One of the closest places to our apartment is this lovely tea shop, which sells specialty tea drinks and gourmet soft ice cream.
Yesterday I tried a rose & white chocolate soft cream cone – so good, even on a cold day.
Uh oh – shades of Old Delhi! This type of wiring lines the shopping avenue, just another of the many conundrums of life in modern Tokyo.
We’re so happy to have a very good bakery close by. Upstairs is a dental clinic.
A 7-11 is our closest convenience market, but just a few feet up the street from it are a Lawson’s and a Family Mart, so we’re well-covered.
Brett and I chose this pork cutlet bento at 7-11 for our lunch today. It cost us $4.07, and was enough for both of us!
When it rains in Japan, out come the clear umbrellas for sale. These cost a little less than $5 each, but when I first came to Japan in 1971 they were only 100 yen, about 37 cents back then.
A shop further down the street displays a traditional cedar twig ball which signifies sake is for sale.
This rustic looking place is a noodle restaurant. Right down the street from it is a takoyaki (octopus fritters) stand, so if this restaurant is a good one, we’ve got two of our favorites covered close by.
Here’s a little spot along the way where you can stop and do a few pull-ups to get your circulation going.
And of course, there are vending machines just about everywhere! Interestingly, the Coca-Cola machine contains no Coke.

In Japan At Last

First task today was to figure out how to get to our subway station (that’s it over on the left).

We are so happy to finally be in Japan!

While we have had a wonderful time since we began traveling last August, our arrival in Japan has felt a bit like coming home. Not only are we thrilled about being nearby to our son and his family again, but we’re going to be here long enough that we can fully unpack our suitcases and live somewhat like “normal” (whatever that is) for a while. We still haven’t a clue what most anything around here says, and we’re just getting started figuring out our way around in a new area of Tokyo for us, but it’s so wonderful being in our favorite country in the world once again. We’d still move here in a heartbeat if we could.

As we walked around our neighborhood today I took pictures of stores located at key locations – I still navigate best in Japan using landmarks since I’m otherwise mostly unable to read anything here.

We left started for the airport yesterday at 6:00 in the morning. It was pitch dark when we left our Airbnb and since I couldn’t see the two small steps in the pathway out to the street I of course stumbled and fell. It was very painful and at first I couldn’t get up because I was so twisted around, but Brett helped me stand and assess the damage. I thankfully didn’t break or sprain anything but I did bang myself up pretty well and have the bruises and scrapes to prove it. How Brett got down those steps without falling when he was taking out the two heavy suitcases to the car was nothing short of a miracle.

We had hoped that by leaving early we would avoid Auckland traffic issues but it was not to be – there was an already heavy amount of cars out on the road. The signage to the airport was very confusing as well, but we eventually found our way, got our car turned in and ourselves to the airport. We got in line and checked our bags and got our boarding passes, and departed Auckland a little after 10:00 a.m. It was a long flight (nearly 11 hours) but our seats were OK and we were fed two meals with an ice cream break in the middle. The flight also had a fantastic movie selection which helped pass the time (we both finally got to watch Bohemian Rhapsody).

Our daughter-in-law had everything ready for tacos when we arrived last night, as well as a couple of appetizers, and fresh strawberries for dessert.

Arriving in Narita Airport is convenient to nothing but the town of Narita, and there’s generally around two hours of commute time to reach any destination in the Tokyo area. Our son was at the airport to meet us, and got us on an express train (NEX) into Tokyo followed by a taxi ride to his beautiful new house where our daughter had a light dinner waiting for us.

The kitchen has an incredible assortment of Japanese dishes – this drawer is full of teacups, bowls and small plates.

Our apartment here is very nice, but it’s going to take us a few days to figure some things out, like the washing machine. We have a nice, well-equipped kitchen with loads of dishes, a very comfortable bed and a good-size living/dining room. The bathroom isn’t the most modern (it sadly doesn’t have one of those fully-automated toilets) but it’s very clean and has a traditional Japanese bath for soaking which we’ll enjoy. The apartment and the building are very secure, and just a short walk away from shops and restaurants.

Our granddaughter in full fairy princess mode. She loved the dress and wands but was not too sure yet about the wings.

We’ve already been having a grand time with the grandkids. The first thing our grandson (C) said to me was, “Grandma, you look thinner than you used to.” I love that boy! It took just a few hours for our granddaughter to decide we were OK and could pick her up or hold her hand when walking.

Lunch today came from Mos Burger, a Japanese chain that serves regular burgers as well as ones that appeal to more traditional Japanese tastes. My “burger” had a toasted rice “bun” and was filled with a medley of Japanese-style vegetables and seaweed instead of lettuce. It was very tasty – I’d order it again.
Some of our Japanese favorites from the supermarket today include miniature KitKats (including two new flavors!), peanut crackers, asparagus cookies, sakura mochi, giant strawberries, Japanese fried chicken and potato salad, yakisoba, and roasted wheat tea.

We had lunch at our son’s this afternoon and then went out with him to find an ATM that would accept our American debit card as they are often rejected, even by bank-owned machines. Today the ATM in our subway station refused the card but another one located in the back of a nearby minimart (owned by the same bank) worked fine – go figure. After we had some cash, Brett and I then headed to the supermarket with our grandson to do our first round of grocery shopping. C read labels, asked employees where to find things or translated what people were saying to us – he did a very good job and was a huge help. I absolutely ❤️❤️ Japanese supermarkets, and we had to make an effort to keep from buying too much. We chose some yakisoba from the prepared food section for our dinner tonight, and are otherwise set for the next week or so. Tomorrow our son is taking us out to the navy base so we can get some American items from the commissary and exchange, including plenty of Diet Coke for him.

Finally, it is definitely winter here. After three weeks of hot summer weather in Australia and New Zealand, we arrived to temperatures around 40°F (or less – there had been snow earlier in the day). We had our coats with us coming off the plane, but today the scarves, hats and gloves came out as well! The apartment was also extremely cold inside when we first arrived, but with our daughter-in-law’s help we got the heater working and now we’re toasty and comfortable.

Here’s hoping the next few months will not go by quickly!

New Zealand Days: Mangorei & Auckland

It was difficult to leave our Airbnb in Wellington – our host was a delight and the room cozy, comfortable, and in a great location.

We left Wellington at 10:00 a.m. the day before yesterday, which turned out to be good timing – there were almost no cars on the expressways, and before we knew it we were once again out in the beautiful open countryside of New Zealand.

We have come to believe there are no straight roads in New Zealand, at least not outside any city’s limits. Once again the highways we traveled twisted and turned through fields, hills and mountains. It was all wonderfully gorgeous, but challenging at times for both driver and passenger. Brett often had to grip the wheel and pay close attention, and I had to work to keep myself from being flung from side to side of the seat with each turn. The speed limit on New Zealand state highways is around 60 mph, although it goes down for some curves (down to 20 mph for sharp or hairpin ones), and passing lanes are frequently provided when going uphill so that no one gets stuck and frustrated behind slower cars and trucks.

My first McDonald’s dining experience in more than 20 years turned out pretty well – my “gourmet” New Zealand burger was quite good!

We passed through a few small towns on our way to Mangorei, and at one gas station’s minimart we discovered real Diet Coke in the cooler! Oh, how it had been missed! I also found Golden Fruit cookies there, a childhood favorite no longer made in the U.S., and we also picked up a package of Gingernuts, extra crispy gingersnaps made for dunking. We snacked on those a bit but at around 2:00 in the afternoon we were growing hungry and decided to stop for lunch. As we drove through the first town we came to the only place we could find was a McDonald’s, and as it was quite a ways to the next town we decided to stop there for lunch. I cannot even count the years since I last ate in a McDonald’s (over 20 at least except for a teriyaki burger when I’ve been in Tokyo), so I was a bit wary, but I was able to order a freshly made “gourmet” burger with locally-raised New Zealand beef on a special bun. It was very good! The only thing that could have made it better was if they had used real cheddar instead of the American cheese-like stuff, but still I enjoyed my meal. Brett had a fish sandwich and a coffee and called his meal good too.

Mt. Taranaki rises off in the distance. In the winter it’s snow-capped, and locals ski there.

It was shortly before lunch that we first spotted the large volcanic cone of Mt. Taranaki (8,261 feet) off in the distance. Our Airbnb was located up on the side of the mountain so we knew we hadn’t too much longer to go to reach our destination.

Our Mangorei Airbnb sat up on the side of Mt. Taranaki, in a forest. Just 500 feet above where we were it transitioned into a rainforest.
The view to the west from the house looked out at the ocean, and at night we could see the lights of New Plymouth.

The Airbnb we stayed in couldn’t have been in a more beautiful location. The home itself was gorgeous and sits inside the mountainside forest, with views up to the rainforest above, and out to the ocean the other direction. The house and bed were very comfortable, the owner an interesting man we enjoyed chatting with, and we had a good rest there for the night.

The house had decks on three sides, with gorgeous natural views from each one.

We were up and on the road again by 10:00 a.m., and were expecting an approximately five-hour drive to Auckland. We headed out to the coast and drove along by the ocean for a while, enjoying all sorts of beautiful views before turning into the center. We soon found ourselves heading up into the mountains, traveling through a rainforest before moving into pine forests, deep valleys and fields of grazing cattle.

While down in one valley we we were notified there was roadwork ahead and to “watch for queues.” Soon enough we found ourselves at the back of a l-o-n-g line of cars and trucks on the valley floor that had obviously been sitting for quite a while as engines were shut off and people were out visiting with others while they waited. We shut off our car as well and sat there, but after about 25 minutes we noticed cars coming down the mountain from the other side, and 10 minutes later it was our turn to start over the mountain with a slow, very winding climb up to the top. We discovered the workers as we got near to the summit, apparently repaving the passing lane. At that point pretty much everyone was stuck behind several slow-moving trucks but could not pass any of them – frustrating!

I finally got to try a New Zealand pie – they were in shops and minimarts everywhere we stopped, but this one was freshly made, and filled with tasty seasoned ground beef and cheese. The crust was incredibly flaky.

Of course what goes up must come down, and we had a wild, winding ride back down the other side of the mountain on our two-lane road, behind the trucks that now kept having to put on their brakes so as not to fly off the road – it was a nerve-wracking piece of travel for both Brett and I. We eventually made it to the bottom and noticed that the line of cars and trucks on the other side now waiting their turn to go up and over was even longer than ours had been! Most of the vehicles that came down in our group stopped at the small town at the bottom of the mountain, but Brett and I drove on to the next town, Piopio, and stopped at a little cafe and bakery there. The food was freshly made and absolutely delicious. Brett had a bacon, egg and cheese sandwich, and I finally got to try a New Zealand mince and cheese pie. Besides the good food we also got a much-needed break before heading back out on the road.

The journey from Piopio started out well, but a few miles away, near the junction between the highway we were on and the one we would take up into Auckland, we came to a complete standstill in a huge line of cars that went on for miles. Had there been an accident? For over an hour we moved along very slowly and eventually discovered that workers were repairing two lanes at once on a stretch of the road just past a roundabout that had cars entering it from three directions. The work had turned the roundabout into a complete bottleneck and caused massive traffic jams on all three roads! We finally got through that mess, and once again drove happily on our way to Auckland, feeling very smug at one point at the bumper-to-bumper traffic leaving the city while there appeared to be very little traffic going our way into the city.

That smug feeling was wiped away though the closer we got to downtown. Soon enough, we were the ones stuck in traffic barely inching our way along. We crawled for another hour or so until we finally reached the exit that would lead to our our Airbnb. It was at this point that Google Maps decided once again to go nuts, and it pointed us in a direction completely opposite of where we needed to go. We finally got turned around and on our own figured out the route to the house. When we arrived it was after 6:00 p.m., and we’d been on the road for over eight hours. It was no wonder we felt so exhausted!

I don’t think we were ever so happy to get to an Airbnb as we were when we arrived at our one in Auckland.

Our Auckland lodgings are beautiful and peaceful, and we decided that instead of pushing ourselves trying to get out and see things in town today we’d just hang out in the neighborhood and relax, and get ourselves packed and rested for tomorrow’s long flight to Tokyo (over 10 hours). We enjoyed a special Valentine’s Day dinner at a nearby restaurant earlier this evening, and stopped at a neighborhood bakery to pick up pastries for tomorrow’s breakfast. Thankfully the airport is only a 20-minute drive away, and at the early hour we have to be there to turn in the car there shouldn’t be any traffic.

We enjoyed our last day of beautiful summer weather – it will be cold and wintery when we arrive in Tokyo (this is the view from our Airbnb window). One of today’s tasks was getting our winter and summer clothes switched around again.

Our time visiting the North Island of New Zealand has been everything we hoped for and more. The scenery has been magnificent, and the people we’ve met along the way friendly and gracious. We’ve enjoyed absolutely perfect summer weather every day with no humidity. Over and over we were asked if we were going to visit the South Island, and received words of gratitude when we said we were sticking to the North. So many visitors just pass through, we were told, in a rush to get to the south, when the North Island has so much to offer and see as well. We have promised ourselves a visit to the South Island some day, and more time in Auckland as well, but for now we’ve had a fabulous time driving around in the North.

New Zealand Days: Napier

Napier is also known as Art Deco City.

In our drive around New Zealand’s North Island, we chose to stop in Napier, located on Hawke’s Bay on the southeast coast, for two reasons: 1) We wanted a place to stop between Rotorua and Wellington (we’re hoping to keep our daily drives between four to five hours a day); and 2) We heard that downtown Napier has a collection of vintage Art Deco buildings that we wanted check out.

We left Rotorua about 10:30 in the morning yesterday, and had a lovely drive down to Napier, through rolling hills and lush farmland on a two-lane state highway. In the distance we could see mountains at times, some even with snow, but they eventually disappeared. We had also hoped to stop off and check out a couple of waterfalls along the way, but although we saw signs letting us know they were in the area, we never saw any other signs letting us know when to turn. Google Maps was no help at all either – it has not functioned well here in New Zealand. As we approached Napier though we came over a last set of hills and got our first look at Hawke’s Bay, chock full of sailboats out in its turquoise water, and loads of houses perched up on the bluffs above the town.

The amazing view from our room in Napier. There is actually a huge cruise ship hidden behind the palm tree!

It took us a couple of tries to find our Airbnb up in the hills – the streets were narrow, some were one-way or dead ends, and once again Google Maps let us down – their directions told us to go up a one-way street, and they left off information that we would need the ‘North’ side of a street versus one labeled ‘South.’ But, we eventually found the house, and when we were shown to our room, the view alone made all of the frustration of getting there worthwhile. Our first thought as we looked out at the incredible view was to wonder why we hadn’t booked the room for more than one night!

Three of seven Victorian houses that survived the earthquake sit across from the waterfront park. These painted ladies now hold restaurants, shops and guest houses.

After getting our stuff up to our room, we chatted with our delightful host for a while and played with their adorable little terrier, and then got directions for how to get down into town as well as some suggestions for where to eat dinner. We turned out to be closer to the Art Deco district than we thought, and decided to start over at the waterfront, then stroll through the town and end with dinner.

The park along the waterfront was a much nicer place to walk than down on the beach.

There was a strong wind at the waterfront and lots of choppy water – definitely not beach weather. The beach was shingled (small rocks) versus sandy and didn’t look very inviting either. There’s a long park lining the beachfront, so we walked through that to a main street (Tennyson) that headed back into town. We had glimpsed a few of the buildings on the way to the waterfront and thought Tennyson would be a good place to start.

This tower on the T&G building sat on the first corner we came to.

Art Deco has been my favorite architectural style for forever, and walking through Napier was like going through a box of exquisite jewelry. Almost every building was vintage Art Deco, built in 1933 after most of the city was destroyed by a large earthquake in 1931. Many of the buildings now house modern shops on the ground floor, with the vintage upstairs offices, apartments or sometimes left empty. All were well-maintained though with no peeling paint, etc. We must have walked around for an hour or so – every time we looked up, there was another masterpiece of the style. Even the street signs and manhole covers were done Art Deco style so as to blend in.

Lovely detail
A Chinese merchant’s building – next door was one of the few non-Art Deco buildings, a small place with a green Chinese-style tile roof, but we couldn’t find any name or connection to this one.
Does it get more Art Deco than this?
The Municipal Theater was a masterpiece and is still in use – La Traviata will be performed there next week.
Art Deco manhole covers.

We eventually made our way to a small Mexican restaurant, and managed to get the last available table (customers after us either had to sit at the bar or wait outside). We enjoyed some very tasty (and spicy) food and cool drinks, and then headed to our car and back up to our room to enjoy the view some more and relax. The bed during our stay in Rotorua was the most uncomfortable we’ve slept in during our travels (way too soft for us), but the one in Napier more than made up for it and we both slept soundly.

The Mexican restaurant we ate at was in an old house that had survived the earthquake.
Hidden between and behind all the Art Deco was this tiny bar – loved the name!
We had a beautiful sunset view from the second window in our room.

This morning we enjoyed coffee and breakfast out on the terrace with our host, enjoying the beautiful view for the last time before starting our journey to Wellington. It may have only been for one night, but we definitely found this Airbnb and the visit to the city one of the highlights of our Big Adventure!

We enjoyed breakfast out on the terrace before we departed Napier this morning.

New Zealand Days: Rotorua

Dwarfed by the trees in the Redwood Forest. The forest was is a must-see for us in Rotorua.

As much as we loved Sydney – and we absolutely loved Sydney – the summer heat and humidity there about did us in. When I climbed on the train out to the airport at 8:40 a.m. on the morning we left, I was quite literally already soaked through with sweat following the short walk from our apartment to the train station, with it dripping off my head and face onto the floor of the train. Everyone around me looked as cool as a cucumber while I felt like a very soggy human Las Vegas fountain.

We had reserved a Toyota Camry but ended up with this bright blue Corolla . . . for $350 less and better gas mileage! We’ve nicknamed it “the Bluebird” – it’s always easy to find. Brett picked up driving on the left side of the road quickly (well, he had to).

But, we got to the airport, got our bags checked, cooled off and eventually boarded our three and a half-hour flight to Auckland. We arrived on time at around 4:00 p.m., expecting to quickly pick up our bags, get our rental car and hit the road. But it was not to be so easy: Brett got pulled over by customs and had to practically unpack his entire suitcase to show that the little jars in his suitcase were really Oregon jam and not honey. That took a while, and then we had to wait for a van to come and pick us up and take us out to the car rental office, which was near to but not in the terminal. Everyone we dealt with was very, very nice, but by the time we finally drove out of the rental lot it was after 6:00 p.m. and we had a three-hour drive ahead of us.

Thankfully, because New Zealand is so far south, it didn’t get dark until around 8:45, so we did get to see quite a bit of beautiful countryside on our way to Rotorua. We arrived at our Airbnb at around 9:15, met our very kind hosts, got settled into our room and fell right asleep.

After a lovely breakfast the next morning, prepared by our hosts, we checked out the notebook of local sights and activities our hosts had prepared for guests and discovered that you have to pay (a lot) to view almost every site in the area, from natural wonders to Maori villages. Free activities were few and far between However, we did find a few interesting-looking places that didn’t charge admission, so we set off to check them out. Our first stop was Kuirau Park in downtown Rotorua.

Kuirau Park had two thermal pools where you could soak your feet – heavenly. My broken toe loved it.
We approached the large, boiling pond that sits in the middle of the park . . .
. . . and then walked across the bridge that spanned the pond. It was like walking through hell -sulphur, heat, steam, and everything around was dead.
The far side of the pond looked even more dead than when we started, if that was possible.

We could smell sulphur the moment we got out of our car at the park, and noticed lots of steam coming out of the ground in different places, as well as lots of low brown fences which surrounded the steam. Fairly soon we were walking around pits of boiling water or mud, or listening to water furiously bubble and hiss beneath piles of rocks. It was fascinating! Eventually we reached a rather large pond of boiling water with a low bridge across it. Crossing the bridge was, I thought, like walking through hell, with its smell of sulphur, dead trees all around, clouds of steam blowing across the water, and moist heat rising up through the planks of the bridge. And, all of this was right in the center of town! There were also large area of grass where we could see small pools beginning to form, and just outside the park and across the street was a motel that had apparently just sprung a leak because there were big clouds of heavy, angry steam coming through its fence out to the sidewalk.

The traditional Maori meeting house. The designs on the eaves and over the door were made with shells. No one can enter without an invitation.
Brett and I shared a big, wonderful slice of lemon meringue pie at a bakery near the lake.

From the park we walked up and looked out over Rotorua lake, and down to a Maori village that sits by the lake, in particular to see the traditional meeting house which is decorated with shells. We could have walked down into the village, but it’s not a place set up for tourists or visitors. We stopped at a small bakery nearby though and shared an amazing and affordable piece of quiche and big slice of lemon meringue pie for our lunch.

Rachel Spring was tapped in 1920. Note the water temperature: 212 degrees, or the boiling point.
Back when Government House was a spa and bath house, men stayed in one wing, women in the other. There was a restaurant and lounge in the middle.
No architectural detail of any kind was avoided or left out in the construction of Government House.

After lunch we headed over to Government Park especially to see Government House, so called these days only because it sits in Government Park, not because it was ever the seat of government. Actually, it was constructed as a large spa back in the late 19th century, and had thermal waters piped into private bathrooms throughout the hotel. The spa, or bath house, also contained large pools for more complex therapeutic needs, and guests could also receive hot water, high pressure shower massages. The architecture of the place was a frothy mix of several architectural styles from gingerbread to cupolas to leaded glass to half-timbering. Out front were lawns for croquet and bowling.

Locals and guest still swim daily in the Blue Baths’ huge thermal swimming pool. It was built in 1933, and the interior is full-on art deco. It remains a popular spot for weddings and other events.

Nearby was the famous Blue Baths, built in 1933 so both locals and spa guests could swim in hot, therapeutic waters. The Blue Baths were infamous for a while as the first place where men and women shockingly swam together at the same time in New Zealand. Both Government House and the Blue Baths are listed on the New Zealand historic register (as is nearby Rachel Spring, where all the hot water come from), and Government House now holds the Rotorua Museum.

We came back to our Airbnb from that outing feeling a bit tired, but rested for a bit and then headed into town to eat at a highly-rated place called Ali Baba’s, which served Tunisian food. Our dinners were some of the best food we have had since we began traveling – fluffy rice with falafel,  tasty sauce and fresh salads – and the price was pretty good too, with our two huge plates of food and some baklava costing less than $25US.

The spiral path up to the suspended bridges and tree platforms for the night walk. A couple of the artistic lanterns hang above.
The giant hanging lanterns were designed and made by a local artist using resin made from recycled pine trees.
At one stop, the giant ferns on the ground were lit from underneath – gorgeous!

Then it was out to the Redwood Forest to experience the night walk through the trees. We paid $20US each, and for around 50 minutes we walked from platform to platform in the trees in the dark on suspended bridges high above the forest floor. Each platform contained information about the redwoods and the forest. Large, artist-made lanterns, fairy lights, holograms and other types of lights decorated the forest – the experience was absolutely magical, and we left feeling very glad that we had decided to go.

A kayaker drops down over Okere Falls, but the guy behind him didn’t do as well and got tossed around a bit until he finally got himself righted. This section of the falls was the site of a hydro-electric power plant for a while – the remains can be seen in the foreground.
A white water raft shoots through one of the lower falls. The rapids through the area are Class V.

We slept in this morning, and at around noon drove up north to visit Okere Falls (because they are free to visit!). We were able to watch kayakers and a raft or two, loaded with people, go over the falls. The 22-foot high waterfall is said to be the highest commercially rafted waterfall in the world. We ended up doing quite a bit of hiking in the area when we took what appeared to be a short loop trail and instead had to walk nearly two miles through the woods to get to the other end.

Our first stop at the Redwood Forest was to check out the bridges we had walked on last night and were surprised that we weren’t as high up as we had thought we were. We also could find none of the lanterns – during the day they are disguised and hidden in the trees.
California redwoods are the tallest trees in the world. These towered above us, and yet are mere babies compared to the ones in California.
We learned last night that “New Zealanders love their ferns” and the Redwood Forest is filled with them, many of them quite large and towering high above the forest floor.

Leaving the falls we took a short drive back to the Redwood Forest to see what they all looked like in the light. The redwoods came from California, and were planted in 1900 – New Zealand is the only place outside of California where they grow. The forest was magnificent, with towering redwoods and huge ferns along the way, and there are several different hiking trails to choose from, depending on how far you’d like to walk (we chose the shortest, supposedly 30 minutes but it took us more like 45). The trees are nowhere near as big yet as the ones in California, but give them a few hundred years and they will be!

Tunisian pizza at Ali Baba’s – who would have known that apricots and cream cheese on a pizza would taste so good?

Dinner tonight was back at Ali Baba’s, where we shared an extremely delicious Tunisian pizza topped with chicken, apricots and cream cheese among other toppings. It sounds weird but it was fabulous. Our big pizza was just $12, and we still have half to take with us for lunch on the road tomorrow.

We’re heading to Napier tomorrow, located on the south coast of New Zealand’s north island. We’ll stop to visit some more waterfalls on the way, and hope to get into town early enough to stroll around to see Napier’s most famous site, an amazing collection of art deco buildings located throughout the downtown area. We can’t wait!

Finishing Up in Sydney

Our guide at the Opera House called their Chinese New Year’s decoration “the quadratic pig.” I don’t think that’s the sculpture’s real name, but it stuck with us.

Gong xi fa cai! Xin nian kuai le! Happy New Year! Welcome to the Year of the Pig!

Our time in Australia has absolutely flown by. It seems like just yesterday that we were in Hong Kong, and yet sixteen days have passed since we arrived in Perth: six days there, four days on the train, and another six here in Sydney. It’s been an amazing time, and yet we know we’ve only scratched the surface of this big and fascinating country.

We were very hot and tired at the end of our zoo visit and more than ready for a cool ride back across Sydney Harbor on a ferry.

For the most part it’s been very HOT while we’ve been here, from beginning to end. We knew we were coming to Australia in height of their summer, but we (me especially) were honestly not prepared for the blazing sun, high temperatures and the humidity (once we hit Sydney). Still, I’ve never seen skies so blue and have loved being out on and near the water once again – the trade-off has been worth it.

The original main entrance to the Taronga Zoo was impressive, but visitors now enter through a more modern gate.

We traveled over to Sydney’s Taronga Zoo yesterday to check out their collection of Australian animals, excited to see ones we had only previously seen in books, and were not disappointed. Taronga (an Aboriginal word for “beautiful view”) was a wonderful, well-planned zoo, set up high on a hill with a sweeping overlook of Sydney harbor, and with well-designed animal enclosures. The zoo is good-sized without being overwhelming, and has an Australian “walkabout” area as well as a koala walkabout and a reptile section containing giant monitor lizards, crocodiles, and snakes both (highly) poisonous and not (there are also a few SE Asian and African animals, but we did not go over to see them). We arrived just a few minutes late for the koala encounter, where I believe I could have held one of them (swoon), but we still got a very good look at them. Koalas are just as adorable as you think they will be.

The green python was in the traditional python pose. I don’t like snakes, but I loved the color of this guy!
A kangaroo slowed down long enough to pick up a stick to gnaw on – they were very active.

The nocturnal animals were of course asleep, and the platypus and echidnas were hiding the entire time we were there, but otherwise we got a good, fairly up-close look at many fascinating animals. My favorite, after the koalas, was the southern cassowary, the third largest bird in the world, and the bird most closely related to its dinosaur ancestors. The big one we saw yesterday was gorgeous and he knew it.

Mr. Gorgeous. The colors on his neck and head were extremely vibrant. He was also one very big bird.
Bondi Beach

For our last day’s activity we took the train and bus over to the famous Bondi Beach this morning and took a hike along the coastal walk path to check out the ocean views. This morning’s weather was cool and slightly overcast in Sydney (although with high humidity), but by the time we got to Bondi the sun was out in full force and once again the humidity was pushing the limits (it’s been worse here in Sydney than back on Kaua’i). We walked as far as Bronte Beach, with a stop to share a grilled chicken sandwich for lunch at Tamarama Beach, at a spot overlooking the beach. There was a breeze as we walked, but it came and went, and unfortunately when it went away it was miserable, for me anyway. From Bronte Beach we caught the bus back to Bondi Junction, and then took the train to our neighborhood station.

The public swimming pools at Bondi looked very inviting.
One of the many beautiful views along the coastal walk from Bondi Beach to Bronte Beach.
This view, and the plants, reminded me of beach walks back in the day in Southern California.
Lots of surfers were out today at the not-very-big Tamarama Beach.

By the way, we have greatly enjoyed our apartment in the Potts Point neighborhood, a suburb to the east of downtown Sydney. The apartment is conveniently located, and we’ve had no trouble getting out and around from here. The area is filled with lovely older terrace buildings in between some modern buildings and even some art deco stuff as well and we’ve enjoyed walking around and looking at those. Some of the old buildings have been converted into backpacker lodging while others are being or have been renovated. Potts Point sits up on a bluff from the Sydney harbor area and Wooloomooloo (try saying that fast!) neighborhood, so there are some rather daunting staircases to climb if you’re walking back.

These two older terrace homes around the corner from our Sydney apartment have been turned into inexpensive backpacker lodging.
I love the look of this apartment building from the 1920s, sort of “pre-art deco.”
A renovated terrace home – there is also an apartment below street level.
The Butler Stairs have 103 steps and connect the Potts Point neighborhood to Wooloomooloo below. We thankfully didn’t have to climb these stairs, but we loved the view from the top!

Tonight we’ll finish our packing, and eat all of our odds and ends to clean out the refrigerator, making for a very weird dinner (remaining items include two eggs, half an avocado, a lemon, orange juice, wine, a few spoons of yogurt, some blueberries and some grapes). We’ve also got two lovely big slices of banana bread, but we’re saving those for our breakfast tomorrow as we’ll be up early to be on our way to the international airport for our flight to Auckland!

An Afternoon On The Rocks

View of The Rocks from Cahill Expressway path

The best travel experiences often arrive when you least expect them. The same goes for meeting new people and making friends.

We had a wonderful time with Lucinda – so happy we were able to meet up! Another one of the MASSIVELY HUGE cruise ships that visit Sydney sits off in the background – there is a new one every day.

I have always had great experiences meeting my readers, and yesterday’s meet-up with reader Lucinda was no exception. What Brett and I thought would be just a nice lunch and a long chat with a Sydney reader of the blog turned out to be a day of exploration for us in an area of Sydney we might not have visited otherwise, or if we had, we wouldn’t have appreciated anywhere near as much for its history, culture, and sense of place in modern Sydney. Lucinda has a deep knowledge and understanding of The Rocks neighborhood’s history, its current incarnation, and its future direction. Plus, talking with her was like catching up with an old friend you hadn’t seen in a long while, and we never ran out of things to talk about the entire time. The whole experience took the day from being merely a good one into one of the best days we’ve spent during our travels.

Currently the Museum of Modern Art Australia, this gorgeous art deco building formerly housed the Maritime Services Board. Pilots and harbor masters worked in the upper glass spaces, directing ship traffic throughout the harbor.

The Rocks neighborhood sits down under the south end of the Sydney Harbor Bridge. One of Sydney’s earliest settlements (1788), the area came to be where Sydney’s great shipping wharves were located, and the neighborhood was filled with men and families that worked on the docks or the merchant service, something Australia sadly no longer has (all merchant activity is now contracted out to other countries, and Sydney Harbor is almost purely used for recreation now). Along with the sandstone houses that gave the area its name, The Rocks was filled with hotels, pubs, and other related businesses, and was known as quite the rowdy part of town. These days, many pubs remain as a reminder of The Rocks past life, several of them claiming to be “Sydney’s oldest pub.” Other buildings related to The Rocks’ maritime past have been converted to other uses, and most sad of all, homes that workers’ families had lived in for generations have been and are being converted into million-dollar residences – gentrification in full force – while the families who formerly lived in those homes were moved out to the far west side of Sydney, away from the harbor and neighborhood they had lived by and in for so long.

The former funky Palisade Hotel has become a chic boutique hotel with a fancy restaurant and pub.
The Argyle Cut was built between 1843 and 1868 using convict labor to drill, dynamite and cut through the sandstone, linking The Rocks and Miller Point. It is now heritage listed.

We met Lucinda at Circular Quay, and started our visit with a walk along the Cahill Expressway, on a path that looked out to the harbor and out over The Rocks neighborhood. She showed us little paths and stairs that descended into the neighborhood, and we walked around for a bit while Lucinda explained what we were seeing and how places were in the past as well as how they fit into Sydney today. We eventually found our way to the Glenmore pub (in the former Glenmore Hotel) where we enjoyed lunch up on the rooftop, shaded by large umbrellas and cooled by a lovely breeze. It was quite a hot day, in the mid- to upper-80s, and while Brett and Lucinda each enjoyed a couple of beers, I decided to go with a couple of glasses of tasty Australian white wine. Let’s just say I was a bit sloshed by the time we finished – the wine glasses were big, and the pours generous.

Starting off across the bridge
At the halfway point across. It may have been the remainders of the wine talking, but I felt when I was up there that I maybe could have handled the bridge climb, acrophobia or no.
Looking out over busy Sydney Harbor. Other than the ferries, all the boats are recreational.

I eventually got myself righted and we headed over to the Harbor Bridge. There are stairs to climb up to the bridge, but these days there are elevators as well, so we took one of those and started off across the bridge – the pedestrian path is on the side that faces the Opera House. The views along the way were nothing short of spectacular – poor Brett and Lucinda had to stop every few feet so that I could look out and snap a picture of the changing view of the Opera House as well as the views across the harbor. It was especially lovely up on the bridge because of the cool breeze that blew the entire time and kept us cool.

The view of the Opera House changed as we walked across. This was the view, the backside, as we began our walk into The Rocks.
As we walked along the bridge, the front began to appear . . .
. . . until finally the entire front was revealed. 

When we got to the other side we stopped for some gelato, and then it was time to say our goodbyes. Brett and I hopped on our train back to the south side of Sydney and home while Lucinda headed in the other directions.

Two very happy travelers!

Brett and I agree yesterday was one of the best days we have enjoyed during our travels because it had it all: good weather, an interesting location, history and local color, good food and drink, and best of all, delightful company and wonderful conversation. We only hope that some day in the future we can return the favor and show Lucinda around one of our favorite neighborhoods or cities.

A Reunion in Sydney

This picture made us laugh because we now both look SO MUCH like clones from our dad’s side of the family (our younger siblings took after our mom). People often mistook my brother and me for twins when we were young.

We’ve had a lovely first few days in Sydney along with my older brother, catching up, reminiscing and visiting places around town. He arrived from Queensland (located in the northeast of Australia) just an hour or so after our train arrived in Sydney. He had booked himself a hotel in our neighborhood not knowing we were staying here, and the hotel turned out to be only a couple of blocks away from our apartment, so it was easy for us to get together each day.

My brother has lived in Queensland for over 40 years, working for the Australian Institute of Marine Science as an oceanographer and chief research scientist. He has both Australian and U.S. citizenship. His wife was a veterinarian, and both of them recently retired.

This is the view that says you really are in Sydney!
The Sydney Harbor Bridge view was best on the ride back into Sydney.

We met up early Thursday morning to go down to the harbor for a ferry ride across to Manly Beach. Temperatures that day were predicted to reach the mid-90s, and they did – the weather was beastly, and the heat draining. Being out on the water was lovely though, with nice breezes as we rode along the water both coming and going, and stunning views all around. We got our first glimpse of the opera house which completely exceeded all of our expectations, and of the magnificent Sydney Harbor Bridge as well, another famous landmark. We also got views of the prime minister’s and governor-general’s official houses, the navy base, the zoo up on the hill and other sites.

When we got off at Manly, the heat unfortunately was at its worst and we quickly found we barely had the energy to walk around. We had hoped to eat lunch out there, but the heat took away our appetites. The air was actually shimmering at one point because it was so hot so we ducked into a small restaurant and ordered cool drinks and sat and chatted for a while before heading back to the ferry for a cool ride back to the quay.

The Governor-General of Australia’s official residence, Admiralty House, looks across the harbor toward the opera house. Behind it is Kirribilli House, the secondary residence for the Prime Minister of Australia. They are only open to the public once a year.

My brother had a shopping errand to take care of downtown, so Brett and I decided we’d go along and look for a replacement for my pilfered sunscreen/moisturizer (I realized later that a bar of special soap from one of our Indian hotels had also gone missing from the bag). We did find a product I could use, but taking care of that small errand was when l fell and broke my toe. Thankfully I could still (somewhat painfully) walk, and we stopped at a supermarket on the way to our apartment for supplies, relaxed at our apartment for a while, and then all headed out for dinner at a nearby fish restaurant.

The Australian Maritime Museum

I took the day off Friday to rest and keep my foot iced and elevated, while my brother and Brett went out to do “boy stuff.” The weather had nicely cooled off so they headed back downtown to the harbor area to visit the Maritime Museum as well as the Powerhouse museum just down the road from it, filled with steam engines and other mechanical stuff that Brett loves to look at. It took them several hours to do both, and they both thoroughly enjoyed themselves. We again all hung out in our apartment for a while to enjoy some wine, cheese and conversation, and then walked over to an Italian restaurant next door to the fish restaurant we’d eaten at the night before. The restaurant was very busy, and we waited an hour for a table, but our dinners made the wait completely worth it – the food was that good.

The city-side view of the Sydney Opera House, with its expansive main steps leading up to the concert hall, opera theater, and smaller theaters.
Reflection of the Harbor Bridge on the glass overhang of the Opera House windows.

My brother was scheduled to head for home this afternoon (there has been massive flooding in the area near his home), but this morning we decided to take the guided tour of the opera house before he had to leave. The tour was absolutely FABULOUS, worth every penny, and we had a great (and funny) guide who spoke like an announcer on British nature shows, where they sort of bring things down to nearly a whisper for the really interesting tidbits of information. As for the opera house itself, it was beyond stunning, both inside and out, and we loved learning its history, from idea to design to construction, and about its future (renovations are taking place). We were also quite lucky to be able to be one of the last groups to be able to enter both the main concert hall and the opera theater as events were being held in both this morning – we got in to view them just before they opened to the public and tours could no longer go in. Unfortunately, because of final preparations going on for the events we weren’t allowed to take photos inside the actual halls and theaters.

Looking up at the iconic roof structure, the steel frame can be seen inside the glass. The wooden structure below is the concert hall – it is a completely independent structure from the roof and not attached in any way; the same is true for the opera theater.
The interiors of the roofs are magnificent, sculpture-like areas of concrete, steel and glass with wood added from the performance areas.

After the tour we all sat outside beside the harbor and had coffee and chatted some more, then said our good-byes. The last time I had seen my brother was in 2005, and neither of us know now when we’ll be able to see each other again. However, both of us are travelers, and now that we’re retired there’s a very good chance we’ll meet up somewhere again sooner rather than later.

These colorful banners represent pitcher plants and advertise an exhibit of carniverous plants in the Botanical Gardens!
Two of these impressive bronze Chinese foo dogs protect the entrance to a pergola inside the Botanical Gardens.
We have seen a banana tree in every city we have visited on our journey – seriously! – but this was the first one that was actually producing bananas (red ones).

Although it was very humid today, it was still cool-ish, and my toe thankfully didn’t hurt too much, so Brett and I decided to walk home from the Opera House along the harbor and through the Sydney Botanical Gardens. We decided to stop for lunch at the Garden’s cafe, ordered a plate of fish & chips to share, and sat outside to enjoy the beautiful surroundings. I was thrilled to discover that a kookaburra was sitting on a sign just looking over where we were sitting as I had very much wanted to see one in the wild. However, this turned out to be one of those “be careful what you wish for” events, and a true dining adventure, because the next thing we knew we were being dive-bombed not once but twice by the kookaburra as it attempted to snatch a piece of our fish! The attacks scared us out of our wits as they happened VERY quickly, and literally without warning, but thankfully we didn’t have to “share” any of our fish, especially after I set my purse up on the table next to the plate which blocked the bird’s view of our lunch.

I was thrilled to spot this kookaburra “in the wild;” that is, until he began trying to take off with our lunch!
When we dared take our eyes off the kookaburra this was our lunch-time view.
Our apartment is just a short distance from the top of the formidable McElhorne Stairs, the last hurdle on today’s walk home.

We have some great activities planned around town for the next three days, so hopefully the weather will continue to cooperate and not heat up again! But so far, heat and broken toe aside, we are thoroughly enjoying our time in Sydney, and I’m so grateful I got the chance to spend some time with my brother.